What Is a Stress Crack on a Tree?

The term “stress cracks” is often associated with damage to basement walls or driveway cement. Home inspectors also use the term “stress cracks” when inspecting drywall and framing of homes or other types of buildings. Such cracks usually mean there is a problem and correction is needed.

Stress cracks occur in trees too. These cracks usually indicate there is a problem within or around the tree. These conditions can develop due to a number of circumstances. Just like the cracks in the basement wall, the driveway or interior of the house, if you don’t deal with the problem now, you’ll certainly have to deal with it later.

Here are just some of the reasons trees have Stress Cracks:

The tree has been struck by lightning.
The tree is root bound due to some form of root girdling.
The tree is suffering from soil compaction.
The tree has an open area of rot where water is setting.
The tree has been damaged by some form of wood boring insect and the area has not healed.
The tree has been injured. A common example is weed trimmer damage at the flare/base or some type of vehicle damage and the tree has not healed.
The tree has been incorrectly pruned.
The tree has been impacted by acts of nature like ice, high winds or a heavy canopy.
The tree is lacking in water, or in some cases too much standing water.
The tree is low in vigor due to a lack of required nutrients.
The root system has been damaged due to nearby root cutting. This often happens during new construction where changes occur within the root zone of the trees drip edge.

What to Do If Your Tree Has a Stress Crack

All of the above scenarios as well as others can and will lead to situations which put the health and safety of your tree in danger and possibly you and your property. Should you see a crack developing in your tree, the best action you can take is to contact a professional arborist. A qualified arborist will be able to assess the condition, examine and evaluate why this is happening and suggest a solution. They’ll be able to tell you if the tree can be made safe in its location, if there are treatments available, or if there are safety concerns and that the the tree should be totally removed.

The professional staff at Branch Tree Service performs stress crack, decay, rot, and other tree health and safety evaluations on a daily basis. Feel free to contact us regarding your trees today!

Root Flares are Important for Tree Health

Why Trees Planted Too Deep Struggle

Trees too deep in the ground, an all too common problem, have two basic problems. When the trunk flare is under ground, it stays moist and doesn’t breathe properly as bark is supposed to do. Soil too high on the trunk also often hides circling and girdling roots which choke the tree and drastically slow down growth. Many trees are snapping off at the ground surface because of this problem. Trees grown in containers are highly subject to this damaging condition. To make matters worse, mulch is often piled up on trunks.

Soil too high on the trunk also often hides circling and girdling roots which choke the tree and drastically slow down growth.

How to Expose a Buried Root Flare

Solution? Get the mulch and soil off the trunk and off the flare. If you do the soil removal yourself, use hand tools and gloved hands being extremely careful not to damage the wet bark tissue. Water can be used but only with a soft flowing stream. Strong water blasts can severely damage the soft bark on the base of the trees. The best route is to hire an arborist that uses the Air Spade. It is a fancy sandblasting type tool that blows air (no sand) at a high velocity and removes the soil without damaging even the smallest roots. Arborists that don’t use this tool or the Air Knife should be passed on when hiring a tree care company.

Caring for the Root Flare After Exposure

Once exposed, the root flare area should be left exposed to the air. The tree trunk and root flare eventually will grow and expand to fill the depression around the base of the tree. Putting anything into the depression will cause the area to become a problem again. That includes stones, bark, compost or anything else. All I would put in the depression is a very thin layer of shredded mulch and that can be skipped. Deep holes that may create a dangerous situation need to be covered with a grate.

Thanks to the Dirt Doctor, Howard Garrett, for allowing us to share this very helpful article on our site. You can view more of his articles here.

Late Frost Hitting Your Landscape? Don’t Panic.

Frost damage that occurs in late winter or early spring after newly emerging shoots and flower buds are breaking open is often defined as late frost damage and can be very detrimental to plant growth and fruit harvests. Often times it may take a few days or even weeks for the damage to become evident. Frost damage is most often seen only in new growth needles and leaves.

Trees Most Affected by Late Frost

Cypress, magnolia, maple, (including Japanese maple) dogwood, sycamore and a wide range of conifers are usually more impacted by frost than other species. Frost damage is usually evident by burnt looking tips on conifers and wilting looking branches on deciduous trees and shrubs.

In some cases, late frost damage does impact a tree to a higher level of concern in which there is little too no growth for the rest of the growing season. Something you can do is make sure they have plenty of water for the rest of the year (until dormant stage arrives again).

The sudden weather change from warm to cold will impact leaf and flower production. You may expect to see few or no flowers for the year. However, as long as the tree is vigorous enough its beautiful flowers and full-size leaves should return for next year.

Tips for dealing with late frost on trees and shrubs

Make sure to water often and as needed all season long. Water around the outer drip line of the branches.
Prune out any dead branches which helps to reduce points of entry of insect and disease.
After the first flush of growth is established, root fertilize around the drip line. To avoid undue strain on the root system, fertilize at 50% recommended rate both for mixture and volume of application being completed.
If and where needed, scout and treat for any pest threats that may be attempting to invade your frost stressed plants.
Unless there are other current pests, nutrient or cultural related concerns, then your once frost damaged trees and shrubs should recover back to normal within the next year.
Should you have further concerns regarding late frost damage on your trees call the tree doctors at Branch Tree Service. We’re always here to help!

Planting Trees the Arborist Way

Questions to Ask Before Planting a Tree

When looking to plant a new tree there are a number of things to consider before digging the hole. Take a look at the list below before you get started.

What type of tree do I want to plant?
Will this tree be right for my soil and for where I want to plant it?
Is this tree going to do well in my region (part of the country where you live)?
How big of a tree should I buy and how big will it get at maturity?
Is this tree going to be planted in clay, loam, sand, dry or wet soil?
Where should I buy my tree from?
Can I plant this tree myself our do I need service from a professional?

There are certainly other factors to consider when the goal is to plant and grow the right tree that meets your desires. You also need to consider factors such as wind, shade, and sun exposure too.

The Right Tree for the Right Location

If you’re a passionate tree lover, you’ll want to purchase the right tree for the right location. Nothing is more disappointing than going to the local garden center or one of the big box stores that sells trees, doing all the preparation and back aching work just to see your wonderful tree fade away year after year until it is completely dead. This scenario happens more often than not.

Why Consult an Arborist Before Planting

Before investing your time and money on the next tree planting project yourself, you may want to consult with an arborist near you. Arborists specialize in knowing what trees are right to meet your goals, can help you select the right tree for the right location and also know what trees will do well for a life time and not just for the next few years.

Branch Tree Service, Inc. has over 38 years of experience helping people to choose the right tree, plant it and care for it. We believe trees are an important part of our eco-system and strive to ensure the trees we plant will live for generations to come. We invite you to contact us for your next tree planting project. Remember, trees are or future!

What’s Wrong with My Maple Tree?

Maple Trees (Acer) are among the most common and regularly planted trees in many regions of the United States. Maple trees come in all sizes, shapes, and colors. Although tolerable of heavy clay soils, maples grow best in loam soils with good drainage. These trees are used in a variety of settings and for particular purposes. You’ll find dwarf ornamental maples used to accent a garden or landscape bed. You can also find maples with heights of 60-100 ft sprawling in a yard, used as a centerpiece for the property, screening, a noise buffer, or for shade.

Maple trees also have their share of illnesses which if left uncared for can lead to their ultimate decline. Fertilizing with the correct source of nutrients is often overlooked. Diseases such as verticillium wilt can devastate any maple. Common insects such as scale insects can harm maple trees too. There are numerous threats to these trees and especially those growing out of their natural habitat in the forest but rather living within your normal landscape setting lending to a more stressful environment.

One pest threat which is lethal to most shade tree species of maples is the “Ambrosia Beetle”. This oftentimes overlooked or misdiagnosed insect is a deadly, invasive and native threat to the health and safety of maples.

The Ambrosia Beetle is closely related to bark beetles but is actually more associated with the weevil family of insects (curculionidae). Ambrosia beetles and their larvae do not feed on the wood per say, but rather on ambrosial mold (it’s like a fungus). The females introduce the fungus into the tunnels as they bore into the sap and sometimes heartwood of trees, shrubs, and logs. Once the fungus is laid the larvae begin to feed on the fungus. Upon completing their development, the males mate and their life cycle begins again.

There are 2 families of Ambrosia beetles, the invasive family and the native family. These 2 beetle families are also known as “The Black Stem Borer” and the other is the “European Shot Hole Borer”. These beetles girdle branches as well as invade tree trunks. Branches and trees are not killed by insect chewing but rather by the ambrosia fungus clogging up the vascular tissue (something similar to cholesterol causing blood clots in a person). Weakened, low vigor trees appear to be more susceptible to infestations from Ambrosia Beetles but evidence shows these borers will infest healthy trees as well.

Ambrosia beetle channels

Signs and symptoms of Ambrosia beetle infestation may include upper limb/tip dieback, discoloration of the leaves, oozing spots along the trunk and main branches and tiny holes that look very similar to those found in a BB Gun. You can also look for frass tubes which looks like a toothpick sticking out of the tree or leaking sawdust. A stressed tree can die quickly during hot dry weather as water cannot reach the branches and leaves in the crown.

Some will ask, “do Ambrosia (shot hole borer) beetles attack other types of trees?” The answer is YES! This deadly pest can be found in over 200 different plant species. At Branch Tree Service we’re seeing increased ambrosia symptoms in various types of maple trees but also in the hickory tree family, walnut, sweetgum, tulip, poplar, magnolia, and the oak tree family.

How can you get rid of Ambrosia Beetles?

It is possible to apply timely trunk penetration applications which may offer some managed level of suppression. The latest supported research shows that micro invasive injections of systemic insecticide has better, longer lasting results and control of these beetles. Be aware that there are no known treatments available as of August 2021 which provide total control and eradication of Ambrosia Beetle.

Other Ways To Help

If your tree appears to be more than 40 percent defoliated, (first confirming your tree’s problem is ambrosia beetle) you may want to remove the tree to reduce beetle population and spread.

If less than 40 percent of the tree is defoliated, maintain good soil fertility. Trees in the landscape may require more nutrient supplements than one might think.

Mulch around trees
Long soaks of water around the branch line (when the weather is dry) of the tree will help reduce unwanted stress to the trees vascular system.
Prune out dead and infected limbs
Remove infected wood (such as fire wood) from the site
De-bark nearby logs

As the author of this article I have first hand experience dealing with Ambroisa Beetle infestation in my trees. Upon purchasing my home in 2019 I found that of my 26 large mature trees, 11 of the trees were infested with Ambrosia Beetle. While investigating further as to how I could best tackle my beetle problem I found most resources stating this is usually a minor concern and simply keep my trees watered and fertilized. Although I appreciate the comments of others, I have found their research information outdated as I continue to battle this Ambrosia Beetle infestation in my own landscape.

Here’s what my “hands on” experience has found

These beetles attack perfectly healthy trees, (not all but some and I still don’t know why one over the other).
This beetle is deadly, (which is not what many articles state) as seemingly within months of identifying this beetle it killed one of my bitter-nut (hickory) trees. The tree appeared normal and healthy upon my first inspection and within months the top was dead. No treatment had been made as of that time yet as I was too late to perform any impactive sort of service.
The beetle fungus (because of the females laying eggs) moves much faster than what I was told.
I have been trunk injecting, spraying, fertilizing, and pruning. Due to the care I’ve given over the last 3 years, I have been able to manage and save 23 of my 26 targeted trees.

Don’t know what’s wrong with you maple tree or even other species of trees in your landscape? Don’t wait, contact an arborist today. Your tree might be in decline from Ambrosia Beetle or one of the many other harmful pest known to negatively impact the health, beauty and life of your tree.

Feel free to call or contact our office to set up your visit today.

What Is Wrong With My Spruce Tree?

Colorado and Norway Spruce have been among the most popular evergreen trees used in the landscape throughout the mid-west and beyond. Unfortunately, these spruces are subject to a wide range of insect and disease problems that can impact their growth and their aesthetic appeal.

The prevalence of certain pests has intensified over the years leading to more rapid decline of these spruce trees. Increasing spread of canker diseases along with aggressive insect infestations continue to plague our beautiful spruces.

Key Spruce Tree Diseases:

Needlecasts

The name speaks for itself as infected trees shed needles. As the disease progresses, the needles die, usually the year following the initial infection. In time the tree looks much thinner on the inside losing its lush full appearance. The greater the infection the weaker the tree becomes and therefore decline continues until death. There are 2 common types of Needlecasts found in the spruce. The first is called Rhizosphaera and the other is called Stigmina/Mycosphaerella.

Tip Blights

There are certain tip blight diseases to be aware of which are more deadly than others. Phomopsis tip blight is an aggressive disease and yet one of the most misdiagnosed ones we deal with. Tip blight diseases infect the growing ends of branches causing the tips to die. Repeated attacks from tip blight leads to premature needle loss and can become so severe that it results in significant decline and eventually total death.

Canker Diseases

Canker diseases are caused by fungi that infect branches or the main stem (trunk). Cankers interfere with the branches ability to transport nutrients and water resulting in the death of branches. Cytospera Canker is an aggressive canker disease usually killing branches from the bottom up. This disease is often mistaken for Phomopsis tip blight. This misdiagnosis is a problem as treatments for Phomopsis and Cytospera are not all together the same.

Key Spruce Tree Harmful Insect/Mites

Spruce spider mite

This true mite (not in the actual insect family) is often found breeding and feeding in numerous species of spruce trees. Once the female is comfortably settled on any spruce tree, the female begins creating offspring, which quickly turn into thousands and thousands of mites now sucking the life out of the fresh new tender growth. Without warning (or so it seems) these mites soon cause discoloring of the needles, needle drop occurs, once healthy, happy limbs begin to sag and soon the tree is now fighting for its life. Spruce Spider Mite can be found active all throughout the growing season and once an outbreak is detected a series of treatments may be needed to provide managed eradication and or managed control. The one thing to know is root fertilizing spruce trees in the spring actually promotes spider mite activity. It is a better practice to root fertilize spruce trees in the fall if at all possible.

Spruce Scale

This tiny, white covered insect lives on both old and new needle growth. While Spruce scale is a lesser concern in most spruce if left alone, these insects (similar to the Spruce Spider Mite) multiply quickly and by the hundreds if not thousands. Simply put, this insect can suck the life out of the tree to a point where the tree is beyond care or recovery.

Pitch Mass Borer

This insect threat is more often found in pine trees. However since the early two thousands this insect has and is a more viable threat to Norway and Colorado spruces. This insect also creates clogs in the trees vascular system thus restricting needed nutrients and water. Pitch Mass Borer can become very aggressive in the damage it causes to the spruce. It has a long and complicated life cycle thus requiring a intensive plan by way of controlling this borer.

Zimmerman Pine Moth

Ever see yellowish, pink like color pitches of mass oozing from your spruce? Could be your tree is under attack from Zimmerman Pine Moth. One of the early symptoms often seen is the top candle (highest point of the tree) is dead while the rest of the tree appears to still be normal and healthy. Don’t be tricked thinking your tree is going to be ok, it’s not. Once you see this symptom you can rest assure your tree is under attack and needs care sooner than later.

So… What Is Wrong With My Spruce?

As you can see from the threats mentioned in this article (and there are many more not mentioned here), while we all desire healthy, happy and picture ready spruce, there’s always a threat just waiting to change your vision and desires. One treatment method or chemical doesn’t work for everything. And some treatments are more cultural than chemical. Some options may include trunk penetrating sprays, others may need outer branch spray coverage. Then there are some infestations which can only be treated by way of either macro or micro root flare or trunk injections. Some treatments offer 2 year care while others require a multitude of timely services.

Root feeding is very important to meet the goals of sustaining healthy spruce. Pruning and disinfecting as needed is a practice well worth the investment. Correct mulching under the tree and good drainage is also very impactive.

As you can see it’s not a one size fits all solution when it comes to caring for your spruce trees (even if the neighbor appears to have the same issues it may not be true). Before making any plan of action, the first thing everyone should do is consult with a professional arborist ensuring correct diagnosis as we can create a solid plan of action and services that will both meet your mission and your vision for your spruce trees.

Not sure what’s going on with your spruce trees? That’s why we’re here, we help people care for their trees! Call us today and schedule a free no obligation visit with one of our highly trained arborist.

How do I stop deer from eating up my landscape?

About White-Tailed Deer in Michigan

“Odocoileus virginianus”, otherwise known as White Tailed Deer live in just about every area of Michigan. The reason they’re called “white -tailed” is that they raise their rear tails with a flash of white signaling to other deer when danger is nearby. Deer are graceful animals and are swift runners (up to 35 miles per hour). Male deer are called bucks, females are called does, and baby deer are known as fawns. Deer live in family style herds most of the time and can live to be 10 years old or older.

What Will Deer Eat in Your Landscape?

Deer will eat from just about every tree, shrub, or flower they can smell, see or taste and of course that they can reach. As the author of this article, an avid outdoorsman and professional arborist for over 40 years I can confirm that deer will eat just about anything if they’re hungry enough. They will reach up as high as they can (which is about 7 feet) and keep on feeding time and again until there’s nothing left but a trunk and some dried out branches.

Contrary to what some resources suggest, if hungry enough, deer will try just about anything for a food source. I’ve lived in my home now for almost 4 years and generally see 4-8 deer each day in my yard. As far as I have seen, deer will feed on even the most resistant of plants. When renovating my property I was determined to have a “deer resistant” landscape. I asked lots of questions to my friends from the DNR, surfed the internet and read many articles about what types of trees, shrubs, flowers and even ground covers I could plant that the deer would stay away from.

My experience proved deer will take a bite out of just about anything once they get use to the taste. The shrubs deer seem to stay away from the most is juniper and barberry. Deer will even take a bite out of boxwoods if there’s nothing else to choose from. Even if deer don’t appear to like a particular plant today doesn’t mean in time they won’t come to enjoy feeding on it at some point. Once deer find their next meal in your landscape they’ll be back time and again unless otherwise deterred.

For the sake of research I tried some over the counter products which I admit offer some level of short term control. There were also some commercial grade products I tried but found them costly and included byproducts that I didn’t want exposed to my yard.

Why Deer Damage Is Costly

Deer feeding can and is a serious challenge in the landscape. The feeding habits these four legged friends can cause devastating damage or death to numerous species of trees, shrubs, and flowers. The economic impact can be overwhelming when it comes to having to remove and replace distorted plants. And, of course, we have to be concerned about the various ticks and diseases they introduce when they come feeding.

How to Control Deer Damage

There are numerous products offering various levels of control. The best way to control deer damage in the landscape is to fence off the entire yard, but who wants to do that? There are granular forms, sound enhancements, water sprays and other creative methods. However, after doing extensive research, Michigan State University and the Natural Resource Center in Connecticut both conclude there are a few products which work better than others.

Here’s what You Should Know:

Treatment timing is very important, (mostly spring, early summer, early fall and late fall).
Method of application is vital to the treatment success.
Correct plant coverage is extremely important (up to 7ft high).
Professional grade formulas will last up to 6 weeks and are rain resistant .
Alternating formulas really helps.
Granular treatments should also be considered as part of your yearly treatments.
Deer feeding habits change thus treatment options can change too.
High quality products are safe, offer zero human or animal health concerns and actually help enhance plant vigor.

Even if your neighbors want to keep replacing deer damaged shrubs doesn’t mean you have to!

Call Branch Tree Service today and schedule an onsite visit with one of our deer repellent treatment professionals who will work with you and your budget to set up a plan offering the best deer feeding protection possible.

Call Branch Tree Service, Inc. at 586-756-7737 or requesting a quote online.

Proactive Tree and Shrub Care Makes Sense $$!

As winter turns to spring and blossoms turn to leaves, so do insects and diseases go from dormant to damaging. We all keep hearing about the “Green Initiative” right? To Branch Tree Service this is more than a tag-line but rather has been and continues to be a part of our company culture, mission and practice. The more we care for our existing trees and shrubs the healthier we all will be.

What Are Your Trees and Shrubs Worth?

Perhaps you don’t know just how much your trees and shrubs are worth? Your landscape is probably worth much more than you realize. As an example: a nice, healthy, new boxwood shrub costs in the range of $80-$120. The wonderful arborvitae shrub that’s used so abundantly within the landscape with a height of approximately 8ft (quality B&B Stock) cost in the range of $300-$420. Keep in mind this is the actual cost of one individual shrub. Now think about your time (or a landscaper charging for their time and travel), your gas, your hauling, unloading, digging, planting, and soil amending material. You could spend hundreds of dollars on each shrub you plant.

Our Holistic Approach to Tree and Shrub Care

Now think about the Branch Tree Service holistic approach to protecting your surroundings. When you combine our early season managed disease and managed insect care, just the right amount of fertilizer and soil treatments and a healthy pruning at the right time, you can keep your trees and shrubs healthy, beautiful and safe.

What Does Proactive Care Cost?

So how much to treat a boxwood shrub for leaf miner for? Would you believe for as little as $3 (not including service call)? It simply makes sense ($) to care for the trees and shrubs you have.

Call us today to schedule your personalized visit and evaluation with one of our certified arborists. We will help you save money, keep your trees and shrubs healthy, beautiful and safe, making you really be a part of the “Green Initiative”.

April Rains Bring May Diseases

Springtime is the mark of new seasonal plant growth which is also the time damaging diseases are infecting your trees, shrubs, ivy, ground cover and even flowers. The cool moist weather of early spring days creates the perfect breeding ground for fungal plant invasions.

In our service area of southeast Michigan there are at least 7 harmful and seasonal plant diseases we deal with. Proactive treatment is key to managing these diseases. We want to identify the plant, the problem and perform active treatments so our trees look healthy, are beautiful and enhance our landscapes each and every year.

1. Sooty Mold

Sooty mold coats deciduous trees and shrubs restricting their ability to absorb sunlight and thus interfere with the tree’s ability to produce nutrients for itself. Without vital nutrients it is unlikely to survive for very long. These are just some of the key plants sooty mold attacks: Roses, Maple, Willow, Elm, Nine Bark and fruit trees.

2. Powdery Mildew

Normally, powdery mildew is carried from a currently infected plant to another by wind, birds or in-flight insects. Powdery mildew coats the leaves of trees and shrubs blocking out the plants ability to produce nutrients. If left untreated, powdery mildew will stunt vital new growth, the tree or shrub will weaken, other insects and diseases add to the trees stress and without corrective action the trees or shrubs will continue to suffer and eventually die. Some of the key plants attacked by powdery mildew include: Dogwood trees and Dogwood shrubs, Peony, Crape, Magnolia, Lilac, Crimson Maple, several varieties of ground covers, Ivy’s and flowers.

3. Cercospora Leaf Spot

Wet, warm conditions in spring create a perfect infection storm for Cercospora Leaf Spot disease, This fungus infects trees as new leaves are starting to develop for the growing season. The fungal spots start out looking very tiny then as the trees complete their leaf expansion for the season the spots become more rampant and larger (these are called spores). The disease stunts plant growth and without corrective, managed care, the disease will eventually cause the tree to become open for more deadly insect and disease invasions. Once the tree can not produce food and energy its decline will continue until the tree is dead. This disease infects many types of shade, fruit and ornamental trees in Southeast Michigan.

4. Phytophthora Root Rot

Generally, Phytophthora Root Rot is likely to develop where the soil is continually moist, there’s very little sunlight and where roots are under stress from “wrong plant, wrong site” choices. The disease impacts the roots thus diminishing root strength. Although Phytophthora Root Rot disease will not immediately kill the plant, the disease will distort its growth and thus the plant will continue to decline and will eventually die. Key plants impacted in Southeast Michigan include: Azalea, Rhododendron, Dogwood, Mountain Laurel, White Pine, Fir trees, Japonica, Yews, and Junipers.

5. Apple Scab Disease

Apple Scab disease is the most aggressive and common disease found in Southeast Michigan. The diseases threatens the health and beauty of several types of fruit and ornamental trees. Scab infects both the the leaves and the fruit. Under certain weather conditions, Apple Scab can effectively invade plants from early spring all the way until winter season. Apple Scab is a more unsightly condition as opposed to immediately life threatening. However, left untreated the tree becomes stressed allowing other concerns such as harmful insects, diseases and nutrient stunting leading to further decline and even total loss of the tree. Key trees infected by Apple Scab disease include: Crab Apple, Apple, Hawthorn, Cotoneaster (shrubs), Mountain Ash, and Pear trees.

6. Needlecast Diseases

Needlecast diseases cause Spruce trees to lose their needles. It’s a fungus that infects the needles of the current year’s shoots. As the disease develops, the needles will die. It typically takes the needles a year after infection to die and begin falling off the branches. There are 2 primary Needlecast diseases found in Southeast Michigan. The most common are Stigmina and Rhizosphaera. Why is needle cast such a problem in Michigan? Blue Spruce are native to Colorado and the Rocky Mountains. The climate in lower Michigan is not nearly as cold or dry. During the summer the humidity here provides the environment which these fungal pathogens thrive in. Needlecast attacks a variety of evergreen trees including Spruce and Pine trees.

7. Anthracanose

Anthracnose disease erupts in trees growing in wet cool areas, when there is lots of spring rain, (even into summer and fall) and where irrigation systems are not properly set and the trees are saturated by over watering. Left untreated the trees stress level goes up while its vigor level goes down. Not only is Anthracnose an ugly looking disease (once developed) it also sets the stage for other harmful insects to become an ongoing problem. Key trees impacted by Anthracnose in Southeast Michigan include: Dogwood (both tree and shrub varieties), Sycamore and London Plane trees, many species of Maple including many varieties of Japanese Maples. Anthracnose makes your tree feel and look stressed and unsightly.

How to Treat Harmful Diseases Invading Your Trees and Shrubs:

Understand planting the right plant in the right location.
Make sure pruning is completed as often as needed to promote air circulation and sunlight.
Be proactive with treatments such as targeted sprays, trunk injections and soil drenching treatments.
Insure tree and shrub vigor by way of proper fertilizing and soil care.
Call a professional tree doctor for help. At Branch Tree Service we specialize in all the treatments just discussed and we’re here to help. Call us today at 586-756-7737 or request a quote!

Should You Use Natural Wood Chips in Your Landscape?

Where to Get Arborist Wood Chips

Try calling your local tree service company first. Some companies do charge for chips or for delivery. Others will offer them free if they are available and working in your area. You can also buy arborist wood chips by the bag online and some communities have them stock piled at various locations for you to load your own.

Wood Chips from Branch Tree Service

Branch Tree Service continues to seek ways to be good stewards of our ecosystem. We offer wood chips as follows:

Pick up wood chips at our location during normal business hours.
Have a truck load delivered at a predetermined spot when we are working in your area. Please note that we only deliver in truck loads of either 10-12 yards or 20-24 yards and will deliver it after the completion of the local job so timing will vary.
Schedule a delivery. With this option, there will be a delivery charge based on your location.

Whenever you need help with your trees, shrubs or landscape, call the professionals at Branch Tree Service.